03/03/2026 7:42 am
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Okay so I finally pulled the trigger on the S5II last week and honestly now I am just staring at it because I have no glass yet and its stressing me out. I saved up for months for the body and now I have about $1400 left for lenses and I am paralyzed by choice. I am heading to Tokyo in about three weeks for a huge trip and I really want a solid two-lens prime setup for street photography and some cinematic video but I keep going in circles. I did some digging and everyone says the Panasonic 1.8 primes are the way to go because they are all the same size and weight which would be awesome for my gimbal but then I see the Sigma 35mm f1.4 DG DN and the images look so much better? Or maybe its just my head.
Some people say the native lenses have perfect AF but others claim the newer Sigma stuff works perfectly with the S5II phase detect system so I am just confused if I am sacrificing image quality for weight. My logic was to get the 35mm and maybe an 85mm for portraits but then I saw the 24mm f1.8 and thought maybe thats better for the narrow streets in Japan? I really dont want to be swapping lenses every five minutes and I am super worried about the weight. I am not a big guy and carrying a massive Sigma Art lens plus a bag all day sounds like a nightmare but I also dont want to get the 1.8 primes and feel like I am missing that pro look or whatever.
Is the autofocus really the same between the Lumix and Sigma primes on this specific body? I have heard conflicting things about micro-jitters in video with third party glass and since I spent so much on the upgrade from my old GH5 I really dont want to mess this up or buy the wrong thing and be stuck with it in a foreign country. Should I just go for the Lumix 35 and 85 or is the Sigma 35 f1.4 really that much better for the money? I keep flip flopping because I want the best results but I also dont want to be miserable carrying it all...
6 Answers
12
03/03/2026 7:42 am
Stick with native glass to be safe. Panasonic is more reliable than Sigma:
- Panasonic Lumix S 35mm f/1.8
- Panasonic Lumix S 85mm f/1.8 AF is foolproof and they're super light.
10
03/03/2026 8:05 am
Quick question: are you gonna be on the gimbal for every shot or mostly handheld? Ive been super satisfied with the Sigma 35mm f2 DG DN Contemporary because it balances weight and optics perfectly. The PDAF on the S5II handles these Sigmas flawlessly.
- stepping motors prevent focus jitters
- metal construction adds durability
- compact size suits travel Consider the Sigma 65mm f2 DG DN Contemporary as well; its resolution data is genuinely impressive for the price.
4
03/03/2026 8:51 am
^ This. Also, late to the party but in my experience, the weight factor is usually the thing that kills the vibe on a long trip like Tokyo. I remember lugging a massive setup through Shinjuku years ago and by day three my wrist was shot. It really makes you second guess every time you want to pull the camera out. Honestly, instead of us just guessing what youll like, theres a legendary video by a guy on YouTube who compared every single L-mount prime specifically for the S5II. Just search for L-mount prime lens comparison S5II and it is basically the first result. It goes deep into the technical side of the phase detect vs the old contrast systems. He shows side-by-side clips of the AF jitters youre worried about. A few technical things I noticed over the years:
- Sigma firmware updates actually fixed most of those early L-mount communication bugs.
- The internal focal length metadata helps the IBIS more than people realize.
- Check the L-Mount Alliance website for the official compatibility list. I've tried many combos, including the Panasonic Lumix S 50mm f1.8 and the Panasonic Lumix S 24mm f1.8, and honestly just check the Lumix subreddit. There is a massive thread about Tokyo street kits that is super helpful. Seeing the actual AF tracking tests in real-time on YouTube is way better than reading a comment. It's really about finding that sweet spot of cost-per-ounce for a travel kit.
2
06/03/2026 12:45 am
Saved for later, ty!
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18/03/2026 12:50 am
> My logic was to get the 35mm and maybe an 85mm for portraits but then I saw the 24mm f1.8 and thought maybe thats better for the narrow streets in Japan? Saw this earlier but just now responding. I would suggest you look at the Panasonic Lumix S 18mm f1.8 instead of the 24mm. Tokyo streets are way tighter than people realize, and that extra field of view is gonna be a lifesaver for architecture and neon night shots in places like Golden Gai. It matches the weight of the other 1.8 primes exactly, which is huge for your gimbal balancing. If you are worried about weight but want a long lens for portraits, make sure to check out the Sigma 90mm f2.8 DG DN Contemporary. It is incredibly tiny and way more pocketable than a standard 85mm. Be careful with the Sigma 35mm f1.4 DG DN Art tho. The images are stunning, basically clinical, but the autofocus motors in the native Panasonic Lumix S 35mm f1.8 are specifically tuned for the S5II phase detect system. You might notice slight micro-jitters with third-party glass during slow video pans that just arent there with native glass. Honestly, for a first big trip, the convenience of the native 1.8 kit usually outweighs the slight bokeh advantage of the heavy Art glass.
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28/03/2026 9:51 pm
Id suggest being very cautious about mixing lens weights if you plan on using that gimbal frequently. Technically speaking, recalibrating the axis every time you swap from a heavy 35mm to a lighter prime is gonna kill your workflow and put unnecessary stress on the gimbal motors. You should also check the power draw specifications. Larger glass elements in f/1.4 lenses require more torque for the autofocus actuators, which can lead to faster battery depletion during long shooting days in Tokyo. Ive seen many people overlook the thermal impact of heavy AF usage on smaller mirrorless bodies too. Make sure to monitor your sensor temperature if youre shooting high-bitrate video in humid environments. TL;DR: Consistency in lens weight and size isnt just about convenience; it protects your gimbal hardware and stabilizes your power management.
